The C3Dt/bd is officially done. The bd stands for Big Delta and it’s a big one. towering 2 Meters with a Z build height of about 1245mm. What stands out about this build (besides going with top of the line components) is that unlike any other Delta printer out there, this one can move the bed.


Following is a run down of all the features and specs for the C3Dt/bd printer:

  • Build Volume: 330mm DIA x 1245mm
  • Linear rails SR15 (Genuine THK)
  • 6mm Aluminum heated bed (110Volt)
  • Duet Wifi
  • PanelDue 7i
  • Delta Smart Adapter with E3D heatsink
  • Swap-able Smart Effector from E3D V6 to E3D Volcano
  • BondTech BMG extruder
  • BuildTak Flex Plate System (spring steel on magnetic bed)
  • 360mm Arms with mag balls
  • Duet Filement sensor Laser
  • Built-in remote for Multiple Cameras
  • Quick Connect Camera Bars
  • Parts cooling
  • Temperature driven controller cooling (of both TMC drivers and Controller)
  • MeanWell 24Volt Power supply
  • Flying extruder
  • Nema 23 Stepper motors
  • 1515 extrusion Frame
  • Unique Cable management (first time use Slinky in 3D Printer)
  • Clip on wheels for easy transportation
  • Macro operated adjustable bed
  • Macros for time-lapse photography
  • Print Speeds up to 400mm/sec

You can build one yourself (without the adjustable bed). All instructions are here: https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-the-C3Dtbd-Big-Delta/


The dimensions for this printer were driven by a set of Linear Rails I found on eBay. A set of 3 THK rails 1638mm long with each 2 block. The 3 dictated I was building a Delta and the length dictated the full height of 2 Meter for the frame. One consideration when building a Delta printer is the length of rails that is “sacrificed” to the motion of the arms.

I ended up using 1515 (1.5″x1.5″) extrusion which I order and had pre-cut from 8020. 1515 is NOT ENOUGH to support a printer this size. I have the printer bolted into the Wall for added stability. I choose the 1515 because I wanted to use off-the-shelf corner brackets

Going with a larger size extrusion would have meant custom corner bracket and I simply don’t have the means to build these.

The fact that I was using SR15 linear rails with each of it’s blocks weighing approximately 500grams meant I had to go with Nema 23 motors. These motors run at peak 2.8A and thus it also meant I needed stepper drivers that can handle such load.

I currently have the arms running on GT2 6mm timing belt. A future upgrade will probably involve 9mm belts instead.

Printed parts

Most of the printed parts for this Delta Build have to do with motor management, belt brackets and the adjustable bed. I’ve used PETG for most mechanical parts and some PLA for aesthetic components (corner plates). Once I’m ready to put together an instructables.com on this printer, I will put all the pieces out there.


A Delta printer is best served with a 32 bit controller and at the time this build started Marlin was not yet up to par on 32 bit controllers. I opted to use a Duet Wifi purchased from Filastruder.com. This the C3Dt/bd will make the rounds at various shows around the country, Filastruder.com was kind enough to meet me half way on some the parts. Thank you.

The Duet Wifi is 32 bit and has 5 built-in TMC2660 stepper drivers that can handle the power requirements of the Nema 23 motors and on top of that are super quiet. I opted for a 24 Volt PSU as this is pretty much a must for power requirements like these. The board is mounted in a custom enclosure that has fans kicking in on demand moving air underneath the board (where heat is dissipated).

The Duet Wifi can easily be controlled from a web interface but I did opt for the PanelDue 7i touch screen, making operation just a little bit easier.

For end stops I went with the trusted MakerBot style mechanical end stops. They’ve never really let me down.

I wish I could have used Noctua fans but alas, the noctua fan dimensions needed do not come in 24Volt (maybe one day, they’ll catch on).

The heated bed is a Keenovo 110Volt 550 Watt silicone heater with an SSR (Solid State Relay) controlling the input.

The Delta Smart Adapter (from Filatruder.com) is a really nice added feature to this printer. Not only is it compact, easy to swap out, it also has a built-in piezo that allows you auto mesh the bed.

Fully assemble Delta Smart Adapter (with parts cooling).
Secondary Delta Smart Adapter with E3D Volcano and mini turbo fan

It takes only two connectors and the 6 magballs to disconnect the entire unit from the printer, making it very attractive for adding a second one (may one mosquite and one Volcano extruder?)

Flying Extruder

Delta’s are know for their speed as in general it uses bowden extrusion (keeping the printer head light weight). With a printer that is as high as the C3Dt/bd a stationary bowden tube would get too long. In general; the longer the bowden tube, the more friction but also the most play (a 3mm retract by the extruder may only result in a 1mm retract at the nozzle).

For that reason I decided to go with what is referred to as a Flying Extruder. The extruder is hung at the center of the 3 carriage on each tower by means of 3 Latex tubes (neatly disguised in braided sleeving). Having the extruder at the center makes for very little movement regardless of position of the ams.

Further more, I designed the Flying extruder to be easily exchangeable (completely toolless). Simply release 3 thumb screws, take out bowden and a single plug to the motor. below is my spare MK8 extruder, in case I need one in a hurry.

It’s not entirely inconceivable to hang something like a clay or chocolate extruder in the same spot.

Macro Driven Adjustable bed

Not only is the bed big, heated with 110volt and fully equiped with a BuildTak FlexPlate System (Buildtak also help me out with this build!!) it actually MOVES. Yes, the bed can move up and down and for it’s movement (macro driven) it uses the same belts as the effector does. The bed has a mechanism built-in (my design) can either grab onto the frame or onto the belts.

I had seen big deltas before and I had seen the plumber’s crack from those removing parts. I will likely print big parts from time to time but the majority of my prints will be small to mid-size and for that I do not need a bed all the way down to the ground.

Currently the bed has two setting; down or table level. The firmware for Duet (repetier) will soon be enhanced with variable use in macros. Once that is in place I can theoretically move the bed where ever I want to (based on the size of the print).

Not a budget Printer

My neck hair rises a little every time some asks what printer to get that is under $200. This is not one of those. As you have seen from the features as parts, this printer uses the best of the best and that comes with a price tag. I’ve managed to keep that parts around the $2,000 mark but that’s only because I’ve used some used parts.

Going with all new parts (Should I need to replicate this build) I’m looking at parts-only in the range of $4,000.